Some would say food is an art form, with each dish representing a canvas for skilled chefs to weave together disparate elements to concoct works that appeal not just to the eyes but all five senses. Here in Alaska, you won’t find much in the way of such thought-out masterpieces outside the sphere of fine dining, as most meals you encounter are more likely to be described as drab or uninspired.
It’s unfortunate that not every restaurant grasps the importance of visual stimuli when it comes to food, but a breath of fresh air has emerged in Latin restaurant Palmeira, which looks to buck the trend of offering up plates in various shades of brown by serving food as vibrant and captivating as the tropics from which they derive inspiration.
It’s clear at first glance that the restaurant’s colorful spirit isn’t limited to just what’s on its menu, as a setting characterized by a host of wooded accents, plants in every direction, and warm lighting help evoke a sense of having stepped into a thriving oasis which happens to be in one of the least trafficked parts of Downtown. I don’t usually care much for a restaurant’s appearance, but Palmeira’s ability to foster an inviting atmosphere is immediately apparent and worth mentioning, for as silly as it sounds, you can practically feel the tropical heat radiating from within this slice of paradise.
Now that it’s clear Palmeira passes the vibe check, it’s time we go over their menu options ranging from beverages including coffee, smoothies, and juice blends, to lighter fare such as soups, salads, and ceviches. Those with heftier appetites might gravitate towards one of their tortas or crunch wraps, while those suffering from a debilitating headache after night full of booze might find respite in one of their chilaquiles—a classic Mexican breakfast dish and effective hangover remedy. There’s something here for just about anyone interested in a fresh take on Latin cuisine.
My wife and I arrived one late afternoon to find the place teeming with activity. It didn’t look like we were able to seat ourselves, so we waited in line which eventually spiraled into what felt like an extensive wait before we finally placed our order. As far as service hiccups go, I understand this is a relatively new spot and the staff was genuinely kind, and so I’m more than willing to look the other way—even if the side of posole I requested turned into a salad at some point in the process.
Our order consisted of the drenched panini—doused in a luscious chipotle sauce—along with an aguachile tatemado, and to finish, their tropical bread budding. We also got to try their signature Palmeira smoothie, a blend of coconut milk, mango, lime, and passion fruit, topped with a fruit leather garnish.
The smoothie was refreshing and a sweet, pulpy delight. It’s hard to imagine anything going wrong with a combination of mango, lime, and passionfruit, but I especially enjoyed munching on the diminutive seeds dispersed throughout as part of a syrupy passionfruit puree. The tough, fibrous nature of the dried fruit garnish made for a welcome snack, while the added flourish of a cocktail umbrella felt as appropriate as ever while sipping on this ray of sunshine.
Our entrees, to be expected, were as much of a visual feast as much as they were a literal one. With the drowned panini, your standard ham and cheese sandwich was elevated by the creamy, mildly spiced sauce, which softened the bread ever so slightly and added a layer of extravagance to both the presentation and the overall flavors. I even appreciated my surprise side salad for its tangy dressing and for brightening things up with mandarin orange wedges and grape tomato halves. Still, I would have really liked to try their posole, which I had high hopes for.
The aguachile tatamado—one of several ceviches and aguachiles featured on the menu—was made up of butterflied shrimp cured in a citrusy roasted chile sauce and mixed with cucumber, sliced avocado, and served with whole fried tortilla rounds and saltine crackers. The brick-red curing liquid proved to be as formidable as it looked by being laced with vinegary heat and smoky char from chiles while the shrimp was plump and delicious—if not slightly past my preferred level of doneness.
This potent creation was like a shrimp cocktail on steroids with its punchy flavors and resounding freshness to constitute a beautifully light yet satisfying lunch. Raw fish fans should take note that Palmeira not only features shrimp, but halibut, salmon, and tuna as well to round out this sizeable portion of their menu.
Lastly, there’s the tropical bread pudding, which may have been the pinnacle to this whole experience. Just the dramatic presentation alone lends credence to the belief there’s serious dedication to craft back in Palmeira’s kitchen. Topped with a fat scoop of vanilla ice cream, chocolate syrup, and a smattering of fruit and granola, this stunning platter was reminiscent of an ice cream sundae in terms of pure decadence without being cloyingly sweet.
The banana, mango, and peach baked right into the pudding took this oft-stodgy dessert and helped break up the monotony, allowing this fanciful depiction to reach new heights. By that, I mean this was probably the best bread pudding I’ve had the pleasure of eating.
From their lush, Instagram-friendly surroundings to skillfully designed plates that beg you to look around and want to order what that person is having, there’s a lot to love about this welcome addition to the Anchorage dining scene. But it’s important to understand that all this pageantry isn’t just for show—it speaks to a great sense of pride and commitment towards showcasing the vibrancy of Latin American cuisine which is ostensibly the driving force behind their success. It’s the beating heart at the center of this new gem and the real reason you should all consider booking your next tropical getaway at Palmeira.
Palmeira is located at 323 Barrow St and is open Tuesday — Saturday from 10 am — 4pm, and on Sundays from 10am — 2pm.
