For over a decade, Hood Wings has endured as one of the last holdouts in the decrepit landmark formerly known as Northway Mall. As crazy as it may sound, this shopping center was the place to be back in the 90s. I’ll always cherish the times I got to run through Discovery Zone’s colorful, labyrinthine playgrounds. For overworked parents and their sugar-filled Tasmanian devils masquerading as kids, the Northway Mall was a sanctuary. Unfortunately, those halcyon days are long gone, with the building left in shambles and all but completely abandoned. But the ghosts of tenants’ past still linger on the walls of the mall’s derelict halls.
I had every intention of driving over to this ancient ruin to try some wings— only to discover that Hood Wings has recently moved further north and joined forces with Lil Babes: a nascent bar tucked into the corner of a Mountain View strip mall. This redirect initially started off on a low note as our group was greeted with a locked door, believing we’d have to try again some other time.
But a few seconds later, a man, later identified as Isreal (sic) Colvin, owner of Hood Wings, arrived to announce that they were doing takeout and deliveries only due to remodeling. Fine with us — we whipped out our phones and started poring over their menu to call in and take our food home.
Surprisingly, Mr. Colvin returned minutes later to inform us they were willing to make an exception and let us dine in. We were then ushered into a stylish, swanky lounge setting with brand-new floors and a sleek, lighted bar — not at all the kind of place I was envisioning.
For the rest of our stay, we reveled in what felt like Southern hospitality at its finest. We chatted with the bar’s owner, who was palpably radiating excitement over his vision to host jazz shows and Latin dancing nights. Hood Wings will be taking full command over the kitchen. In fact, it turns out my friend and local musician Sara had already been to Lil Babes to attend one of their jazz events — a showcase of an elite group of young musicians led by famed maestro Robert Arms. Coincidentally, they just so happen to be primed for a couple shows at Lil Babes the weekend following this article’s publication.
But enough of all that jazz — let’s talk food.
I ordered the cornmeal-breaded catfish combo, a side of mac and cheese, and amusingly enough, a “barnyard pimp.” Sadly, there is nothing provocative here; this pimped-out combo includes four wings, two ribs, crinkle fries, and buttered corn. The rest of our party settled for a plate of wings, and we sat waiting for about thirty minutes for the food to arrive as the passionate grooves of bachata music filled the air. Without hesitation, my friends got up and started dancing, though you could probably surmise my own response, or lack thereof.
With over 20 wing types to choose from, it was painfully difficult to narrow down my decision. I ended up going with a classic in their lemon pepper to try what I assumed to be more of a neutral flavor profile. Except “neutral” utterly fails to describe the extreme potency these wings carried. Not only were they fried to crisp perfection, but the mouth-puckering, acidic bite of the seasoning resonated all throughout my tastebuds and left a lasting impression. This was almost like salt and vinegar chips in chicken wing form, with an ample amount of meat between the drumettes and flats alike.
I’ll admit, I’ve never been much of a chicken wing kind of person but would happily start eating more if they were all this heavenly. Not once did any of our group feel compelled to use the obligatory ranch, which would’ve otherwise helped mask subpar food. The side of fries and corn too, were on point — the former for their crunchy edges and fluffy interior and the latter for merging the natural sweetness of corn with the silky-smooth embrace of butter.
Next up were the catfish and ribs. These moist, flaky filets were evenly coated with a solid cornmeal batter, and I appreciated how generous the portion was for a relatively modest sum. The ribs weren’t exactly fall-off-the-bone tender, but that quality isn’t necessarily ideal, depending on who you ask. Regardless, these ribs had a satisfying, meaty chew with the slightly gamey pungency of pork in each bite. The sauce wavered a little towards the sweeter side for my taste but felt appropriate in contrast to the rich, fatty meat.
It remains to be seen whether this fledgling partnership will bear fruit and elicit the attention these businesses rightfully deserve. However, what stands true is that this alliance is brimming with potential. At the very least, diners can expect some of the best chicken wings and Southern cuisine this city has to offer. This secluded gem may have nestled into a new home, but the heartwarming, soulful quality of their food and sincerity towards their craft shouldn’t be restricted to just one hood; their greatness deserves to be appreciated by all.
Hood Wings is located at 500 Muldoon Road. They're open Tuesday - Sunday from 10am - Midnight.
