Rare beer comes to us with such increasing frequency nowadays, it’s important to know how to define it. In the most general sense, availability is the primary determinant, although volume produced and price are certainly key variables. When it comes to Samuel Smith’s Tadcaster Yorkshire Stingo Bottle Conditioned Ale, rarity is measured in how much of this beer is produced. Only 2,000 cases of this beer were produced this year and when that’s divided up globally, Alaska’s lucky to get a pittance. We did. It’s available and although compared to other beers within the old ale/barleywine class it’s noteworthy, what makes this beer fascinating is more how it’s produced than what it tastes like.

Stingo is a term in England where Samuel Smith’s is produced that denotes a historic strong ale. References to the style go back as far as the 1700’s. Today, the beer is released each year on August 1 in conjunction with “Yorkshire Day” in that region. Samuel Smith’s is the oldest operating brewery in England, having been established in 1758. Samuel Smith’s beers are typically benchmarks within their respective styles and names like Samuel Smith’s Tadcaster Porter, Nut Brown Ale, Oatmeal Stout and the annual Winter Welcome are readily familiar to any beer aficionado.

Stingo stands out because it’s an ale aged in oak casks and matured for over a year. So what? Glacier Brewhouse routinely ages beer in oak for that length and longer. So does Midnight Sun Brewing Company. Both breweries are right here in Anchorage. And, tasting Smith’s Stingo is noteworthy in and of itself, but there are equally and more interesting beers produced right here at home. So, what’s the big deal? Before Stingo hits the oak, it’s fermented in an obscure, historical manner using a few of the remaining Yorkshire squares indigenous only to the Lancashire and Nottinghamshire counties of England.

Yorkshire Squares are open fermentation systems that see very limited use anywhere in the world. Even when they were in vogue, they were rare. The name comes from the square fermenters that were made from both Yorkshire sandstone and then optimally, Welsh slate. Many of the streets of London are paved with the stuff. A massive stone slab makes up the base of the fermenter with four stone slabs for walls that are notched to fit together and fastened with iron bolts. Just for perspective, the stone squares are about two stories high. Interestingly, a second slightly larger, but shorter square is fitted around the first to hold water at desired temperatures to affect fermentation. The joints of all of the corners are sealed with liquid-resistant cement. An inner chamber is constructed using yet another massive stone slab and the entire system is piped for moving the beer from one chamber to another during the fermentation process. A small pump is used to both rouse the beer (circulate the beer and yeast together) every two hours after 36 hours of undisturbed fermentation. Interestingly, exactly fifteen strokes are used initially, and the number of pump strokes is increased gradually throughout the process. These things are huge and not designed to be moved, and in fact a few remain on site at modernized breweries that have left the derelict systems in place due to the cost of moving what have become historical artifacts of brewing.

The fermentation process is also part of the bygone system of “skimming” where, in the open fermentation, the frothy yeast is skimmed off the top during rousing and allowed to run down the sides of the squares for collection and disposal. Few breweries use open fermentation systems today, but some still do. There’s no doubt that this process was expensive and labor-intensive, and the infusing of modern steel and aluminum systems, which are easier to clean and move, led to the disuse of the squares over the years.

From the Yorkshire Squares, the Stingo is moved into oak casks and gently matured over the course of at least a year in the brewery’s underground cellar where it picks up additional complexity from the wood. Some of those casks are over 100 years old and coopers painstakingly replace the individual staves and barrel hoops as needed. Finally, maturation takes place in the bottle and I can tell you from my sample this beer would be a good addition to any collection. Each bottle is vintage dated attesting to the brewery’s continued commitment to release a new vintage each year.

So, what does this relic taste like? It’s a relatively big beer at 8 percent alcohol that pours reasonably clear and fills the goblet with an orange/amber brew under a dusty, off-white head that hangs out for a while, then moves to the edge of the glass. Expect a fruity aroma with hints of pineapple, citrus and dark fruits such as light plums and raisins. Toffee-like notes drift in and out of the sensation and yes, the booze is evident off the top. The flavor is quite rich in the malt and oak character with the malt evident and easily discernable alcohol that’s there, but not hot. Noble European hops make a good showing in the flavor and aroma and stand out even more in the bitterness. The beer’s effervescent for its strength (many bigger beers can be somewhat still) and the drinker’s greeted with a medium-to-full mouthfeel that hangs toward the finish. This might sound like a barleywine, but its closer to the old ale style of beer that’s strong, but not quite as heavy or complex as its bigger brother. It’s a slow sipper better suited for an after dinner drink or at least paired with hearty foods.

Regardless, it’s intensely flavorful, full and rich and certainly enjoyable and if nothing else, would make a great conversation piece for the beer history buffs in your circle. I thought it might be hard to find in town, but according to the Specialty Imports beer geek Rob Weller, “Due to the way I allocated the product by salesmen, you will find broad distribution of the Stingo, both on premise and off premise. Most all major independent retailers will get some, as well as the top and mid-tier specialty restaurant customers. In short everyone gets a little happiness, but no one gets a whole lot of happiness.” My guess is that this fermented smile will fade quickly, so I intend to get grinning quickly.

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