There are some restaurants in this town with unbeatable reputations; they win Press Picks and other “Best of Anchorage” awards yearly, and they are go-to establishments for all things fine and romantic. Their technique and recipes are rarely questioned because they are the highest authority—who is qualified to critique such excellence? I'm not necessarily raising my hand in answer to this question, but I am willing to check in on Orso, if only to keep them on their toes.

What better occasion to try out a staple in Anchorage's downtown restaurant scene than my wedding anniversary? I made reservations for 6:15. We arrived a few minutes early and there was a line at the door, but we were seated immediately at a table for two along the wall.

The deep colors of the room, coupled with both abstract and photographic art, give Orso its warm and upscale feel. The tables are situated close enough together that making your way from one side of the room to the other can require chart maps and much planning, but somehow conversation is never difficult. The service was prompt, and maybe overly so. We’d barely sat down and just picked up the menu when we were approached for drink and appetizer orders. Luckily the waitress knew her stuff—the wine list is endless—and recommended a cabernet sauvignon that pleased me so. Matt and I each had a glass.

Orso’s menu changes seasonally, and I remember at least one occasion where I was disappointed with the choices. But this time I was hard-pressed to make up my mind. I settled on the Seafood Paella with Reindeer Sausage ($25.50) and Matt ordered one of the specials—Fresh Alaska Halibut ($26.50).

My paella came in a shallow, black dish. It featured a tiny mountain of risotto that was cooked just right—soft but not mushy and perfectly creamy. Chef Ramsay (Hell’s Kitchen) would be proud. The risotto was topped with and surrounded by chunks of moist salmon and halibut, shrimp, scallops, and crab claws in the shell. Also tossed in the mix were chunks of flavorful reindeer sausage that made the meal much more unique than it would have been without. Acting as a bridge between the rice and the seafood and sausage was a refreshing sauce of fresh diced tomatoes, red peppers, and onions cooked in sherry vinegar.

The halibut came on a bed of asparagus and Moroccan spiced sweet potatoes. Also on the dish were a handful of balsamic mushrooms. The fish itself had a sweet, smoky flavor, and it was all drizzled in saffron infused honey. The fresh vegetables complimented it well, as did the potatoes, but the mushrooms seemed to overwhelm the rest of the ingredients.

After we'd cleaned our plates (all but the mushrooms), my husband Matt and I both had room for dessert. He chose the Oatmeal Strout Carrot Cake and I had Molten Chocolate Cake. The carrot cake was moist and filled with mascarpone, so it wasn't overly sweet, but neither of us found it very interesting. The liquid chocolate cake was topped with vanilla ice cream, white chocolate shavings, and chocolate sauce. It was a rich dessert, perfect for a chocolate lover. But my favorite part about the cake was the presentation: there was a little chocolate “Orso” on top and I pondered keeping it forever and ever.

My next visit was for a late lunch, which I've never tried at Orso before. A friend and I were seated at that same table-for-two spot against the wall and given menus. I ordered the Seafood Gyro ($10.50) and my lunch date ordered a special that came highly recommended by our server: the Copper River Red Salmon ($22.95).

My gyro came with a side of Orso seasoned fries. The grilled pita was spread with a tomato aioli. It was served open-faced and piled high with cucumbers, bell peppers, and tomatoes—a cool, crisp mix. On top of the veggies were chunks of chilled salmon and halibut. The only flavoring added to the fish was some light lime and garlic, and that's all it needed. My guest’s Copper River salmon was grilled or broiled, which added that smoky flavor that goes so well with reds. It was served on a bed of polenta, spinach, and other greens. Both meals were light, refreshing dishes perfect for summer.

My only gripe ever with Orso was a menu that didn't seem to offer many unique options, but the food has never disappointed. So far, the food is still superb and this season, the menu is just as fabulous. My conclusion is thus: Everything you’ve ever heard about Orso is true. If you’d like to see for yourself, I recommend doing so this summer.

Orso

737 West Fifth Avenue

222-3232

Lunch: Mon. – Fri. 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Brunch: Sun. – Sat. 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

Dinner: Sun. – Tues. 5:00 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Wed. & Thurs. 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

Fri. & Sat. 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.